Sark has so much to offer, but many of us here in the Bailiwick take it for granted and don’t experience as much of our sister island as we could. Been there, done that - sound familiar? If that’s you, then this might be the list you need to entice you back this summer.
We reached out to resident Jolie Booth, Sark Counseiller and Creative Director of Kriya Arts, to ask for some insider tips on how to get the best out of Sark. Here are her top recommendations.
Over to you Jolie.
Image credit: Sark Island
This one is pretty obvious. Sark is the only Dark Sky Island in the world and is famous for its incredible night sky, and it truly is worth a visit to the observatory. I’m an astroguide there myself and I never get bored of hearing the response of shock and awe from visitors as they view Saturn and her ring for the first time. Run by a small team of enthusiasts, the tiny observatory will open you up to the heavens - and us rolling back the roof of the shed is one of the highlights.
The Milky Way forms a foamy spray of stars across the black sky and the planets twinkle at us, showing visible colours, even with the naked eye. In a world of unavoidable light pollution, this unique experience is an absolute must. You can book a visit here.
Most people who visit Sark will walk down to Dixcart Bay, as it’s the most accessible beach on the island and it’s an absolute beauty, with Jurassic feeling cliff edges, great rocks for swimming out to and jumping off, caves to explore, and its very own waterfall. But on your way back up, instead of taking the obvious route, try your luck at discovering the ‘Shady Path’. There’s the ‘Sunny Path’ which winds its way up along the cliff, heading towards Caragh Chocolates near the Coupée, which is a lovely walk and rewards you with a Baileys hot chocolate at Caragh’s at the end of it.
But if you manage to find the shady route, then it runs all the way along the top of Dixcart Valley, on the other side from and looking down onto the path you’d normally take, and brings you out at Dixcart Hotel and Hugo’s Bar. This route is wild and feels full of fairies, and those walking down on the regular path hardly ever notice you. The entrance is the second pathway on the left through the forest as you come up from Dixcart, and instead of going straight up the hill, about half way up, look for a turning on the right, which is the ‘Shady Path’.
Tintageu is a rocky outcrop on the west coast of the island down by the ‘Window in the Rock’. If you follow signs to the window, but then carry on down the path as if you’re heading to the beach, but instead of going to the beach, follow the path up to the top of the rock, then over the other side of the summit, is a carved out flat space, about the size of a double bed. It’s shaded from wind, and gives you the perfect viewing platform for a sunset over Herm and Guernsey.
Not for the faint hearted, this spot isn’t suitable for those who are scared of heights, as it is a sheer drop down the side of this platform (so take care!) but if you have the stomach for it, this part of the island is, in my opinion, the most magical, and I wouldn’t be surprised to discover there is an energy line running through it. Take a picnic and get treated to one of the best performances nature has to offer.
The Mermaid is the pub of all pubs and it has hardly been touched since the 1970’s. This is where the locals go to socialise and they are always up for chatting to visitors - living on a a small island they see more than enough of each other, so you’ll make friends quickly.
I’m not much of a drinker myself, and I obviously encourage you to drink responsibly, but a visit to Sark wouldn’t be complete without at least one night spent in the Merm... And if you’re in there on a Friday night, then I’ll be the barmaid serving you.
Derrible Bay is a nightmare to get to, with steep steps down a sheer cliff face, but approaching it via the sea in a kayak, having set off from the far more amenable and accessible beach around the corner at Dixcart Bay, Derrible suddenly becomes a far gentler and spectacular offer.
Be wowed by her cathedral like caves, with a large pot shaped one that opens up into a ‘creux’ (French for hollow) so the sunlight pours in. The beach is sandy, down the end away from the rocky part where the steps descend to. Kayaks can be hired from Adventure Sark, and at high tide the guides will take you into the various caves for a paddle. It’s such a great way to see the island.
This is the most adventurous suggestion, but is now my favourite thing to do on Sark. I used to be scared of heights before I moved to this rocky island, but from daily exposure to high vistas just from walking around the place my vertigo wore off and two years ago I started working for Adventure Sark, taking groups out coastering - and now I’m absolutely addicted to jumping off of rocks. It helped that the first few groups I took out were all young, and after one has encouraged twenty or so ten-year-olds jump off of a rock, it’s a lot easier to feel safe about doing it yourself.
The adrenaline hit you get from doing it becomes addictive, and now I jump off heights I would never have dreamed I could have jumped off of three years ago. It’s such a unique way to interact with the island’s coast line too and you’ll see nooks and crannies that no one else knows about. I couldn’t recommend doing this enough.
Hugo's makes proper cocktails, and it’s tucked out of the way, so it feels like a little luxurious escape from what can often feel like the Wild West across the rest of the island. Their food is delicious too, in keeping with the same sense of decadence. Their scallops are divine, which I always order the starter portion of, along with a side of truffle and parmesan fries.
They are redesigning their cocktail list for the new season, but everything they came up with last year was on point and delicious. They have about ten on the menu, from staples like espresso martinis and aperol spritz, to a deliciously sweet bramble (complete with fresh pansy flower heads as garnish) and the ‘Hugo spritz’ which is a light gin and elderflower concoction.
This is a mission and a scramble, but well worth it. Up at the most northern tip of the island, on the bit of headland known as the Epercurie, there’s a cave system that you can access from the gauge that drops down to your left as you make your way towards the ‘Buddhist Stone.’
The gully looks steep, and it can be a bit slippery in terms of the ground being loose dried mud, so take care. I’ve only ever done it in Birkenstocks and once in a mini skirt though, so it’s not too arduous. You may need to change your walking boots for sandals when you get there because some parts of the caves are in water and you will find yourself paddling through ice cold pools. Perfect on a really hot day.
The dolmen is a little hard to find, but is well worth the adventure. This neolithic burial site is right on the southern tip of Little Sark, looking out over Le Tac rock. Go via Food Stop on the Avenue, fill up on supplies, then make your way to the dolmen on a sunny day. It’s exposed, so it’s a fair weather option, but on sunny days you can bask and sunbathe on the roof, or there’s room for a couple of people to sit underneath, under the dolmen, in the shade.
We always take offerings for the ancestors, lighting candles and sharing a little of our picnic. We have been known to light the odd sacred fire there too and you might spot us occasionally doing a little leap over the fire on the summer solstice, to help fertilise our dreams. But that’s all optional.